Textile chemistry of sericulture: molecular insights, processing and applications

Sericulture integrates biology and textile chemistry, with silk fibroin and sericin forming the foundation of its structural and functional properties. Fibroin, a block-copolymer-like protein, achieves exceptional mechanical strength, elasticity, and luster through the balance of crystalline β-sheet domains and amorphous regions. Sericin, the hydrophilic coating protein, exhibits diverse bioactivities including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and wound-healing potential, making it valuable for biomedical and cosmetic industries. Chemical processes such as degumming, dyeing and finishing significantly influence fiber quality, structural integrity, and sustainability. Traditional soap-alkali methods risk fiber degradation, while enzymatic and eco-friendly approaches better preserve fibroin properties. Conventional soap-alkali degumming leads to partial fibroin degradation and high environmental pollution, while achieving uniform, durable dye fixation on silk remains difficult due to weak molecular interactions and limited fastness. The large-scale adoption of enzymatic and microbial processing is still restricted by cost, enzyme stability, and industrial scalability. Advances in dye-fiber interactions, natural dye applications and functional finishing (UV-protective, antimicrobial, hydrophobic) expand the versatility of silk textiles. Analytical tools, including spectroscopy, microscopy, and thermal analysis, provide insights into hierarchical structures and performance. This synthesis of molecular chemistry and processing highlights silk’s dual role as a luxury textile and an innovative biomaterial for future applications.